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Coppicing: An Introduction ~ by Bill

An area of coppiced woodland

Coppicing is a woodland management method in which the wood from a tree is harvested by cutting a suitable tree near ground level.  It subsequently regrows over a period of years without needing to be replanted. This technique is different from pollarding, in which branches are cut at, or above, head height, leaving the possibility of grazing underneath the growing branches.

Coppicing is done on rotation: small areas of a woodland are cut each year in sequence leaving the areas not being cut to grow on for between 15 and 20 years for chestnut, and about 7 years for hazel. When an area of coppice is cut, it is all cut down, and creates a clearing. This periodic coppicing encourages the individual trees to live for up to hundreds of years. If the coppice cycle is managed correctly it can increase biodiversity in the woodland because of the beneficial effects of varying light levels reaching the woodland floor, and the range of different aged trees and stools in the woodland.

The best time to coppice chestnut is well after the autumn leaf fall when the sap has gone down, and certainly well before the sap rises in the spring.

The basic procedure for coppicing chestnut is as follows:

  • Clear out all leaves and other debris around the base of the stool.
  • Cut and clear away any dead or dying stems.
  • Progressively cut each stem starting with the most accessible sections and working in to the centre of the stool. Ideally one cut should be made about 1-2 inches above where the branch grows out of the stool. That cut should be angled some 15 to 20 degrees from horizontal with the lowest point facing outwards from the centre of the stool.
  • In some cases it maybe necessary to make a first cut higher and then trim back as above.

Remember to:

  • Fell away from the wind and fell all the poles in one direction.
  • Make sure you are working upwind of any campfire
  • Always leave a fire in a safe condition when leaving the woodland.

A coppiced stool showing some regrowthOnce cut, the poles produced are usually processed to some extent in the woodland: they are often cut to length, and perhaps de-barked. In many cases the coppicer will process further and create spiles (stakes or strong fencing posts), or will split the chestnut into various sizes for fencing. Some even make hurdles for keeping sheep in pens.

An approximate guide the diameter of felled coppice for further processing is:

  • Lathes: 1” to 1½”
  • Tree stakes: 1½” to 2”
  • Fencing Stakes: 2” to 3”
  • Straining posts: 4” to 5”
  • Post and Rails for cleaving: 6” to 8”

In the UK the main trees that are coppiced are sweet chestnut, hazel and hornbeam. Chestnut has traditionally been used for fencing whereas hazel is more likely to have been used for thatching, hedge-laying spars and hurdle making. Hornbeam was used for charcoal making.

Historically chestnut coppice growing has been strongest in the south East of England, especially Kent and East Sussex. Although it is said that the Romans introduced it, there is some evidence that coppicing was practised in England in Neolithic times. There are many areas of the UK where hazel and hornbeam have been grown, but the Midlands and Devon still have much hazel woodland useful for the remaining thatchers.

Posted in: Conservation, Trees, Practical Guides ~ On: 22 May, 2007

11 comments so far

Tracy Pepler
23 May, 2007

Thanks! a nice little introduction!

Paul Dennett
23 May, 2007

Thanks! I would love to get involved in that sort of thing

Richard
24 May, 2007

Of course it goes without saying that coppice trees are planted as such and one would not try coppicing mature trees which would probably die - depending on species! Beech has been traditionally coppiced, as on Cornish “hedges” ( http://handbooks.btcv.org.uk/handbooks/content/section/1627 ) but some of these have not been coppiced for many years and are probably too large to bring back into coppice now although very desirable as the beech will get too big for the “hedge”. Where these are situated by roadside and overmature beech cannot be tolerated then the sooner an attempt at re-establishing a coppicing regime the better. Different cultivars may respond differently but probably best to start with say cutting three widely separated stools and see if they survive after two seasons (may shoot in first season and die second!). The whole process could take 10 years for one unit! Has anyone had experience of doing this?

Tracy Pepler
19 July, 2007

Is anyone able to give some advice on where we could get chainsaw training in East Sussex - near Rye?

Green woodwork courses | The Woodlands.co.uk Blog
30 August, 2007

[…] do in your own or a friend’s woodland. Timber used is usually a by-product of woodland management. Coppiced timber in its green state is easier to cut, shape and turn than is seasoned […]

Tracy Pepler
10 December, 2007

We are beginning to coppice our woodland this year (it has been unmanaged for a while) and I am able to find a market for most of the wood. I would just like to encourage people to look around to see what you can sell, its amazing how many people are wiling to buy some!

Tracy

Mike Pepler
25 January, 2008

There’s pictures of us coppicing our wood on our blog:
http://peplers.blogspot.com/2008/01/biggest-chestnut.html

Mike

john lyttle
25 January, 2008

Can anyone advise me on how many acres of wood land I need to produce 15 cubic meters of split logs on a yearly basis. The main tree being coppiced chestnut

thanks

Phil Cryer
1 April, 2008

At what age and where on the tree would I make the first cuts after planting ASH? I understand the the normal cutting height is about 1 metre for established stools.

What Is Ancient Woodland? | The Woodlands.co.uk Blog
27 June, 2008

[…] of the ancient woodland in the UK has been managed by coppicing (see http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/conservation/coppicing-an-introduction/ ) and some by pollarding. What tips would you give for identifying ancient woodland?  Please use […]

Dale Henehan
17 July, 2008

Cheers for the intro. I really needed something like this for a science project I’m doing.

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