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	<title>Comments on: Coppicing: An Introduction</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/</link>
	<description>A blog about woodland activities, outdoor skills and conservation</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 02:23:04 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: James</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3983</link>
		<dc:creator>James</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Aug 2010 14:24:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3983</guid>
		<description>Hi. I have a lake surrounded by Alders that I want to systematically coppice. The only time I can do the work is in August. Will this be effective or could I kill the trees?
James</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi. I have a lake surrounded by Alders that I want to systematically coppice. The only time I can do the work is in August. Will this be effective or could I kill the trees?<br />
James</p>
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		<title>By: Marco Snyders</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3915</link>
		<dc:creator>Marco Snyders</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Jul 2010 22:01:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3915</guid>
		<description>Good day, 
 
We are looking to buy &lt;strong&gt;Coppice, Kindling, Logs, Sawdust/wood shavings, Wood Chip&lt;/strong&gt; or any other waste wood or forestry material from February 2011 onwards. 
We are a new company based in Suffolk- UK, manufacturing biomass wood pellets and are looking to meet or get in contact with potential suppliers now.  
(contracts are also available )
  
We also buy&lt;em&gt; Mischanthus, Corn husk, Peanut and Sunflower Husk and Olive residue...
 &lt;/em&gt;
If you are interested,then please email me at;   peltrade@europe.com
 
Regards
 
Marco Snyders</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good day, </p>
<p>We are looking to buy <strong>Coppice, Kindling, Logs, Sawdust/wood shavings, Wood Chip</strong> or any other waste wood or forestry material from February 2011 onwards.<br />
We are a new company based in Suffolk- UK, manufacturing biomass wood pellets and are looking to meet or get in contact with potential suppliers now.<br />
(contracts are also available )</p>
<p>We also buy<em> Mischanthus, Corn husk, Peanut and Sunflower Husk and Olive residue&#8230;<br />
 </em><br />
If you are interested,then please email me at;   <a href="mailto:peltrade@europe.com">peltrade@europe.com</a></p>
<p>Regards</p>
<p>Marco Snyders</p>
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		<title>By: BOB LOMAS</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3471</link>
		<dc:creator>BOB LOMAS</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 May 2010 08:31:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3471</guid>
		<description>Sorry Colin, I live in West Sussex, but no doubt a Kentish Man or Man of Kent will respond to your request. Many hazel shanks suitable for walking stick shanks go on the fire because they are too short for hedging heathers or binders of for bean poles if they are not needed for hurdles.

Gone are the days when everything cut was used as faggots and bavins are no longer required for the bakers ovens, which is why the taste of bread is is no longer what it was.

I note on these exchanges that no one has mentioned the coppicer&#039;s barrow, a very useful tool which years ago was so commonly seen in woodlands.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry Colin, I live in West Sussex, but no doubt a Kentish Man or Man of Kent will respond to your request. Many hazel shanks suitable for walking stick shanks go on the fire because they are too short for hedging heathers or binders of for bean poles if they are not needed for hurdles.</p>
<p>Gone are the days when everything cut was used as faggots and bavins are no longer required for the bakers ovens, which is why the taste of bread is is no longer what it was.</p>
<p>I note on these exchanges that no one has mentioned the coppicer&#8217;s barrow, a very useful tool which years ago was so commonly seen in woodlands.</p>
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		<title>By: COLIN HARDEMAN</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3469</link>
		<dc:creator>COLIN HARDEMAN</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 01 May 2010 19:08:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3469</guid>
		<description>Message for BOB LOMAS, Hello Bob, I too live in Kent and I make walking sticks for a hobby. Can you please advise me of any HAZEL SHANK suppliers in the Kent area.
Kind regards. Colin</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Message for BOB LOMAS, Hello Bob, I too live in Kent and I make walking sticks for a hobby. Can you please advise me of any HAZEL SHANK suppliers in the Kent area.<br />
Kind regards. Colin</p>
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		<title>By: stuart.</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3446</link>
		<dc:creator>stuart.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:07:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3446</guid>
		<description>Hi. thanks for all your comments, i only want to harvest the trees for firewood,so as willow is already planted i shall leave them and maybe plant european ash. and a few hazel and chesnut. kindest regards. stuart.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi. thanks for all your comments, i only want to harvest the trees for firewood,so as willow is already planted i shall leave them and maybe plant european ash. and a few hazel and chesnut. kindest regards. stuart.</p>
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		<title>By: BOB LOMAS</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3445</link>
		<dc:creator>BOB LOMAS</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Apr 2010 09:17:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3445</guid>
		<description>The term &#039;ancient woodland&#039; can be misleading. It depends on what is meant by &#039;ancient&#039;; no doubt some people see me as being ancient, a matter of relativity. It also depends on the continuity of the woodland. 17th and 18th century maps of Sussex and Kent, the two most heavily wooded counties in the country, show very little woodland, they having been clear felled to provide wood for ship building and in particular for charcoal to service the vast iron industries of that period. The loss of the southern iron industries and the use of steel for ship building allowed the woodlands to recover to some extent, but the first and second world wars placed great demands on wood. The slump in agriculture in the 1920s helped as many less fertile fields were allowed to be grown over with scrub and eventually trees.

Following WW II there were government grants to reclaim many such fields and much woodland was lost. After joining the EU in 1972, and the planned demise of our agriculture, government grants were awarded to replant many of these fields with trees which are now doing well. There are still many areas to be found in the south that have always been woodland, a reasonable indicator of their age is to be found in the ground flora, in particular yellow archangel and butterfly orchids as both take a very long time to establish. Both these species are now recovering from the devastation caused in the 1950s and 60s when many woods were utilised for for pig rearing.

Our old and ancient woodlands have always bee under the threat of political whim, now it is for roads and housing so it is essential that more woodland is created; but will our new woodlands ever become ancient?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The term &#8216;ancient woodland&#8217; can be misleading. It depends on what is meant by &#8216;ancient&#8217;; no doubt some people see me as being ancient, a matter of relativity. It also depends on the continuity of the woodland. 17th and 18th century maps of Sussex and Kent, the two most heavily wooded counties in the country, show very little woodland, they having been clear felled to provide wood for ship building and in particular for charcoal to service the vast iron industries of that period. The loss of the southern iron industries and the use of steel for ship building allowed the woodlands to recover to some extent, but the first and second world wars placed great demands on wood. The slump in agriculture in the 1920s helped as many less fertile fields were allowed to be grown over with scrub and eventually trees.</p>
<p>Following WW II there were government grants to reclaim many such fields and much woodland was lost. After joining the EU in 1972, and the planned demise of our agriculture, government grants were awarded to replant many of these fields with trees which are now doing well. There are still many areas to be found in the south that have always been woodland, a reasonable indicator of their age is to be found in the ground flora, in particular yellow archangel and butterfly orchids as both take a very long time to establish. Both these species are now recovering from the devastation caused in the 1950s and 60s when many woods were utilised for for pig rearing.</p>
<p>Our old and ancient woodlands have always bee under the threat of political whim, now it is for roads and housing so it is essential that more woodland is created; but will our new woodlands ever become ancient?</p>
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		<title>By: Tracy</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3435</link>
		<dc:creator>Tracy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 07:47:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3435</guid>
		<description>Hi Stuart

Take a look at www.coppice.co.uk 
you might find some help there. Willow would be ok for firewood, just make sure you dry it well. It is great for wildlife. Might be worth talking to local people to see what trees would grow well nearby. 

Bob - great advice - and I guess even better if we can save the brash to do dead hedging etc -much nicer than burning. We only burn when we have no space for brash, but where we have done hedging we see loads of happy birds using it!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Stuart</p>
<p>Take a look at <a href="http://www.coppice.co.uk" rel="nofollow">http://www.coppice.co.uk</a><br />
you might find some help there. Willow would be ok for firewood, just make sure you dry it well. It is great for wildlife. Might be worth talking to local people to see what trees would grow well nearby. </p>
<p>Bob &#8211; great advice &#8211; and I guess even better if we can save the brash to do dead hedging etc -much nicer than burning. We only burn when we have no space for brash, but where we have done hedging we see loads of happy birds using it!</p>
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		<title>By: BOB LOMAS</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3434</link>
		<dc:creator>BOB LOMAS</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 07:37:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3434</guid>
		<description>Burning up whilst coppicing has been mentioned on this page. For those still to do this herewith a few tips. 
1. Visit the coppice in the summer before cutting and work out and mark where you intend to have your fires. This will ensure you don&#039;t destroy any rare plants such as orchids.
2. Dry kindling for starting your fire can be found standing, those small shoots on the stools that never made it and died. A small piece of inner tube will get the fire started well. Make sure you have a small but well established fire going before building it with the material you will be cutting and burning.
3. Important, always lay the cut material on the fire aligned the same way, otherwise a wigwam will form and the fire can burn out underneath.
Should you be using a chain saw a reluctant fire can be encouraged by using the chainsaw as a blower.



4. You don&#039;t want to carry your cut material for burning more than ten paces, so your fires need to be twenty paces or a chain apart, (four rods).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Burning up whilst coppicing has been mentioned on this page. For those still to do this herewith a few tips.<br />
1. Visit the coppice in the summer before cutting and work out and mark where you intend to have your fires. This will ensure you don&#8217;t destroy any rare plants such as orchids.<br />
2. Dry kindling for starting your fire can be found standing, those small shoots on the stools that never made it and died. A small piece of inner tube will get the fire started well. Make sure you have a small but well established fire going before building it with the material you will be cutting and burning.<br />
3. Important, always lay the cut material on the fire aligned the same way, otherwise a wigwam will form and the fire can burn out underneath.<br />
Should you be using a chain saw a reluctant fire can be encouraged by using the chainsaw as a blower.</p>
<p>4. You don&#8217;t want to carry your cut material for burning more than ten paces, so your fires need to be twenty paces or a chain apart, (four rods).</p>
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		<title>By: stuart.</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3431</link>
		<dc:creator>stuart.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Apr 2010 18:45:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3431</guid>
		<description>Hi. i live in Brittany France.  The previous owner of my house started planting a coppice of willow about 6mnths ago, and had intended to plant ash this year, a total area of 5 acres.  I have no knowledge of managing a coppice, so i would appreciate a few pointers.
(1) what type of ash would I need and where do i buy them (about 600,I think I need),
(2) have read that willow is not the best type of tree for firewood, so do i dig them up or leave them, seems a shame to dig them up as they seem to be thriving. 
All your input would be gratefully received. best regards. 
Stuart.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi. i live in Brittany France.  The previous owner of my house started planting a coppice of willow about 6mnths ago, and had intended to plant ash this year, a total area of 5 acres.  I have no knowledge of managing a coppice, so i would appreciate a few pointers.<br />
(1) what type of ash would I need and where do i buy them (about 600,I think I need),<br />
(2) have read that willow is not the best type of tree for firewood, so do i dig them up or leave them, seems a shame to dig them up as they seem to be thriving.<br />
All your input would be gratefully received. best regards.<br />
Stuart.</p>
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		<title>By: Bob Lomas</title>
		<link>http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/comment-page-1/#comment-3372</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Lomas</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:25:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/practical-guides/coppicing-an-introduction/#comment-3372</guid>
		<description>Hazel can be coppiced and brought back into rotation at any age. I have successfully coppiced many acres that were last cut in the 1930s. Old hazel makes excellent firewood.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hazel can be coppiced and brought back into rotation at any age. I have successfully coppiced many acres that were last cut in the 1930s. Old hazel makes excellent firewood.</p>
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