My husband and I bought Lighthouse Meadow in 2022 from woodlands.co.uk.   I’d always wanted to plant my own woodland and see the wildlife changes as the land evolved from grazed grassland to biodiverse woodland.  Our preference was to avoid using plastic tree guards due to the environmental waste. The site is also windy so we wanted to encourage wind-induced root development to have stronger, more wind resistant trees: tree guards can limit strong root development, resulting in weak, top-heavy trees which are more prone to damage in strong winds. The protect the young trees from predation by deer and rabbits, we installed a deer fence with rabbit mesh. Featured image is a male fallow deer peering through our fence wishing he could eat one of my hazel saplings.  We used mulch mats around the base of each young tree, held down with five bamboo pegs. Over two years we have planted 3000 trees using this method. I won’t lie, it is hard work! We used mulch mats made from jute, a 100% biodegradable natural fibre. Their purpose is to suppress the growth of grass around the young tree. They are permeable, allowing air, nutrients and water to pass through them which also helps in reducing moisture loss. In the above photo, Tim has secured a mulch mat around a hazel sapling using a bamboo peg at each corner and a fifth peg to fix the flap of the mulch mat in place. NB : we found that a rubber mallet was kinder on knuckles than a metal one! We are now 18 months on from planting our first trees so I’ve had a chance to assess how well the mulch mats have performed. Last year (2024) had a wet summer and the grass grew very tall. We found that many of the mulch mats had started to biodegrade around the one year point. Our field is steeply sloping which meant that tall grass at the top end of the mulch mats tended to flop over, swamping the shorter saplings like wild plum and oak. So we needed to do quite a bit of maintenance, uncovering some of the trees and trimming the grass. The mulch mats had worked very effectively to suppress the grass immediately around the sapling. The  photo below shows a hornbeam sapling we planted 18 months ago. I’ve pulled back the grass which had flopped over. Although the mulch mat has completely biodegraded, you can still clearly see the square shape where it once was and the grass growth immediately around the sapling continues to be suppressed. The tree is healthy and now tall enough to be above the grass. We planted our second lot of trees in November 2024. However, we have had to reaffix and replace some of the mulch mats we used then because they were damaged during Storm Darragh. We found that the extra strong storm winds were able to rip up some of the mulch mats, despite being pegged down with five bamboo pegs. However, we weren’t the only ones needing to do some maintenance following the storm. Our neighbour has been planting trees using tall plastic tree guards and stakes. His trees also suffered during the storm and he had to re-stake and re-affix many tree guards. So although we found ourselves doing a fair bit of extra work to reattach the mulch mats, other tree protection methods had also suffered and required maintenance. The above photo of a young oak we planted Autumn 2024 shows how the strong Storm Darragh winds have torn up the mulch mat. So, would I use mulch mats again in future? Yes, because after 18 months I can see that the impact of using mulch mats is still benefitting the trees, despite the mulch mat having degraded. However, we have learnt a lot in the last year and we’ve bought a petrol mower (with a ‘drive’ function) and have regularly mowed strips across the field trimming the grass along the top end of the mulch mats to reduce the risk of tall grass flopping over the saplings. We have also learnt that our field has a very substantial population of field voles and the mulch mats don’t protect the saplings from voles gnawing the bark. We have lost around 5% of the trees to vole damage. Tree guards also wouldn’t protect a sapling as the voles can still easily get up inside the tree guards. We are therefore adopting a nature-based solution and will be erecting tall perches for birds of prey. We wish to encourage tawny and barn owls, buzzards and other raptors to the field to feed on the voles. For more information on our use of mulch mats, we made a film for WoodlandsTV, Plastic Free Tree Planting. We are also going to follow the recent WoodlandsTV film by Jack D’Gama and George Hassall on Birds of Prey Perches: one way to reduce rodent damage to young trees as inspiration for our owl and buzzard perches to manage the vole population.

The terms ghosts and zombies often feature in films or TV programmes, but across the country the terms can also be applied to many hundreds, possibly thousands of lost and abandoned ponds.  Ponds have featured in the landscape for centuries or millennia.  Pingos -  formed in the depressions left after the last ice age. The middle of the C20th saw not only the destruction of many hedgerows, but the removal of many ponds.  This was particularly true in farming areas like East Anglia.  The strategy was to increase field size and allow access of complex machinery that was becoming available at that time; for example large combine harvesters.  Whilst the loss of the hedgerows and associated wildlife is well documented, the loss of ponds has not attracted so much attention.  Many hundred of ponds were filled in (often using the debris and material from the destruction of the hedgerows), to give a few more metres of arable land, and with machinery replacing horses the need for ‘watering holes’ diminished.  The infilled ponds are sometimes referred to as ghost ponds.  The location of these 'ponds' can sometimes be found  By studying old ordnance survey (or tithe) maps or  They may be visible using aerial photography / drones and picking up a different colour or shade of the crop growing in a field Noticing the accumulation of water after heavy rain in a slight depression, or a mist hovering over a particular part of a field A zombie pond is somewhat different.  It is a pond or very wet, marsh area which is shadowed by a tree canopy.  The pond has filled over many, many years with dead leaves, so that it has a deep layer of decomposing organic material.  The pond margins is generally overgrown, with willow and other vegetation where have begun to ‘invade’.  The pond is half dead / half alive, hence the term 'zombie'.  The area / water becomes anaerobic / anoxic, as the dead leaves rot and use up oxygen. Few life forms call it home - perhaps midge larvae or the occasional beetle. Indeed, such ponds may release not only carbon dioxide but also methane; the latter is a particularly potent greenhouse gas.  Zombie ponds may be found in woodlands, particularly where active management has fallen by the wayside. However, not all is lost, both ghost and zombie ponds can be resurrected.  In the case of ghost ponds, the infilling material / soil is dug out until the original base layer is reached.   This may be recognised by the dark, fine silt layer / sediment, which may contain the remnants of water snail shells.  Ideally, the excavation should mirror the original outline of the pond.  This may be determined in part by digging two trenches at right angles to each other. Details of the restoration procedure may be found here.   Freshly excavated ghost ponds should be left to fill with rainwater through the winter months, and left for plants and animal to colonise naturally.  Amazingly, several pond restoration projects have demonstrated that the original silt layer of the pond is a valuable seedbed of many aquatic and emergent plant species, even though the seeds may have lain there dormant for decades , possibly centuries.  The refreshed pond should also have a surrounding margin of land to separate it from any adjacent farmland activities - to prevent nutrient run off / pesticide application etc.  Further details of the restoration of lost ponds can be found at:- https://norfolkponds.org/ https://www.ucl.ac.uk/geography/news/2023/nov/bringing-ghost-ponds-back-life https://www.essexwt.org.uk/recovering-lost-ponds In the case of zombie ponds, there is a similar approach to restoration but it begins with the cutting back and / or removal of trees from around the pond to let light in.  Then the layers of rotting leaves / organic materials are scooped out, so that the original sediments of the pond are exposed.  The depth of the decomposing material may be quite significant.  However, with light pouring in and the rotting material removing the pond can soon develop a diverse community of plants (from the seedbed and pond 'visitors' e.g water-crowfoot, stoneworts, and animals).  The restoration / renewal of ponds in fields, meadows or woodlands makes a significant contribution to the biodiversity of an area. There is an excellent video about the restoration of ghost and zombie ponds on YouTube, featuring Professor Carl Sayer (UCL). Professor Sayer grew up in Norfolk, where many of these ‘hidden’ / lost ponds are to be found.  Visit the Razor Science Show “Bringing 'ghost' and 'zombie' ponds back from the dead”. [https://youtu.be/SYkbDdaUMBY?si=gd2jbfxk4iXLSFL5]  

I have been collecting birch sap for many years. It is such a remarkable gift from nature. It has many health-giving properties. And is incredibly versatile. Prior to buying our woodland, which is listed in the ancient tree register as a birch coppice, I would ask wood owners permission to tap their trees, generally well received but sometimes a bit inconvenient. Process It's a fairly straightforward process. The sap rises once a year, generally the last two weeks in March. Normally from the 16th here in the north-east of Scotland. The kit you would need is a cordless drill, an 11/16 bit, plastic tubing the same size (needs to be a tight fit), food grade plastic container (especially if a distance from your car, needs to have a small aperture to prevent beasties getting in but with enough room to breath. the demijohn has ideal size aperture) or glass demijohn. March 16th comes round surprisingly quick! Choosing a tree is a bit hit and miss, although over the years I seem to have developed a bit of a skill in choosing good ones.  Generally I would say mature trees around 8 inches diameter, preferably well away from areas where pesticide is in use and the tree is in good shape. I have previously used trees with witches broom (the tree has been infected with a fungal, viral and occasionally insect activity) and found the tree to be witches broom free the following year. This is not a scientifically proven theory, just from personal observation. Depending on the size of the container, I have used water cooler containers (I found out that they are single-use plastic so most companies that have them are quite happy to give them away), they have the perfect aperture and even though they hold three to four gallons, the weight of the container adds little to the burden, I normally drill 5 or 6 inches above the top of the container. You should aim to drill through the bark; I give it around an inch (2.54 cm in new money), at right angle. Push in the plastic tube, which should be 8-10 inches (you do the maths) long, and the other end into your container, it should start dripping immediately. leave it overnight and check, if using larger containers leave for two or three days. The flow varies, but from a good tree you could expect around a gallon a day. Preparation  You will have a 3-5 day window to use it before it goes cloudy, once cloudy use to water the garden so its not entirely lost. If wine is your thing it is very simple with the sap, sugar and yeast, makes a very palatable result and will keep for at least a year. If you prefer non-alcohol, it can make a delicious cordial - it also preserves it. If you are happy with lots of boiling to reduce it to a creamy balm/moisturiser. There are plenty of recipes on the web for these. These options preserve many of the saps health giving properties. Hope that will do, chaga should also have a wee space, which will grow on birch too and has fantastic health giving properties. Author: Ron (wood owner near Aberdeen)

The advantage of charcoal is that it burns hotter than wood, is far lighter, and produces less smoke and steam - so it's useful for smelting iron or cooking barbecues. You can buy it ready-made, usually imported and often from unsustainable sources, or you can buy locally from people working their own woodlands. Another option is to make your own using a small charcoal maker which Paul Bradford demonstrated to me.  Paul and Lisa do regular charcoal making demonstrations in Kent with their Community Interest Company (CIC), Willow Bushcraft. They use a specially made cylindrical piece of kit to show school children how charcoal is made, and as they sit around the fire they can discuss the processes required as well as the fact that charcoal making goes back to the iron-age.  This charcoal-making device was bought online for about £40 and Paul reckons he can get 30-40 burns out of the charcoal maker before the metal gives way. The processes are straightforward: he loads it with hardwood pieces typically about 1-2 inches in size and closes the end. While I was watching he used oak but charcoal can also be made from hazel, ash, birch, beech or ash. He then puts it on a fire - crucially the wood inside is heated in the absence of oxygen. Initially the moisture comes out as steam and next the wood releases flammable gases which burn off in yellow or blue flames whilst inside the charcoal is being produced. Paul says that although the instructions say it will be done in 2 hours, he finds it takes more like 3-4 hours for a burn. In any event it shouldn't be opened until it has cooled down much later, perhaps the next morning. Paul told me about the many uses charcoal has - obviously it can be burn but it is also used for drawing, for making toothpaste and for some cosmetics. It is used in face-washes and exfoliating scrubs - the properties that really help are its ability to absorb toxins as well as its natural gritty texture. It is also used in some deodorants because of its ability to absorb moisture and neutralise odors. Historically charcoal was used to make gunpowder along with sulphur and potassium nitrate. It can also be a filter for purifying water and has medical applications such as treating poisoning and overdosing because it absorbs certain toxins. It is a special material and quite remarkable how it is naturally occuring and the method of processing is so simple. To make 1.3 kg of charcoal in Paul's machine you need to put in about 6.5 kg of wood, which illustrates how much water by weight is contained in wood, but it also indicates how effective it is to burn charcoal to get to high temperatures - you are not wasting energy evaporating the water and the texture of charcoal allows the oxygen to get in for a hotter burn.  

We had been looking for a wood preferably with a open area for sometime.   We had a look at a few that were not right for us, thinking it was never going to happen.   One day I opened an email and there it was - in September 2022.  Golden Hill Wood, I immediately called Stuart, the area manager, and we arranged to view it.   Well,  it was just perfect and literally five minutes away from our home, so the ball started to roll. It was time for some research on equipment, we got some good advice locally, so a chainsaw, brushcutter, and other equipment was purchased.  Having a walk around with Stuart, taking on some good advice, we then started to work on our new heaven. Golden Hill Wood has some old broadleaf trees but mainly spruce, fur and a few Douglas Firs amongst others.  The wood not been cared for in many years, so I set to taking lower branches off to head height, a few had to be removed including a couple of tactical removals with trees broken half way up, removing the many brambles that had stored from the ground to the canopy in a web like manner.  I found myself pulling brambles from one tree only to see I'm pulling a tree further away as there was so much of it.   Patience is a virtue and I got there.   It is not the end, but everything is now manageable so I have a few hours work and then a chill out. I have a couple of tarpaulin areas which the granddaughters just love and embrace and lend their little hands.   When Roe or Red Deer are about, we have two sets of Buzzards along with Red Kite and. of course, Bunnies.  We spent New Years Eve 2022-23 there and I've made a wild camp under a basher. I'd recommend anyone taking a wood on.  It is so peaceful and calming.

A recent article in the New Scientist suggests that staking newly planted trees may be pointless for trees that are planted in gardens and parks.  James Wong argues that stakes are often not needed because trees have a natural tendency to grow straight and vertical. Indeed, staking may cause damage because the tie that connects the post and the tree can cut into the tree.  Also the tie-up to the stake creates a weak point where a sapling can snap in high winds. Even if it doesn’t snap, it develops an unnaturally thick trunk at that point to stop it from breaking. Despite this, you might still want to use a stake in a garden or park for reasons unrelated to the growth of the tree - to avoid it being run over by a lawn mower or accidentally walked into. For forestry planting, using stakes is a very different matter. Stakes are easy to spot and help forestry contractors to find their new trees for weeding and for “beating up” - the odd phrase used by foresters to refer to replanting where trees have died. Using stakes can also help make the trees grow straight which is important for producing top-quality timber. However, the most important function of tree stakes in most new woodland planting is to keep tree guards vertical and securely in position. Most stakes for tree planting use treated softwood and are sawn, but there is a case for using longer-lasting sweet chestnut pales made by splitting. Such stakes are readily and cheaply available from suppliers in East Sussex and Kent. These stakes are strong and easier to bang into hard, stony ground. As well as being long-lasting, sweet chestnut does not need treating so for those using biodegradable tree guards and wanting to “leave no trace”, these may be the best stakes for new planting. Using untreated stakes like this avoids putting extra chemicals into the environment. Another option, often used for new planting of hedgerow trees, is using bamboo canes to hold the saplings and their guards, usually very light spiral guards. Canes as stakes have the added advantage that they are light and easy to transport: when you are planting any new trees there is lots of material to move around the site - guards, young trees, stakes and spades. getting ready for some serious planting  

Plastic is a problem, plastic is universal.  A class from Ramsbury Primary School went on a walk round their village, looking for signs of plastic pollution. When they looked in the hedgerows (lining the paths and fields), they found old plastic tree guards (and hedge guards).  Some were breaking up into pieces, some growing growing into the bark of the trees.  In addition, there were plastic bottles, face masks, dog poo bags, sweet wrappers, plastic ropes, plastic bags, and plastic wrappers from hay bales. Plastic  litters our world.  Each year, hundreds of million tonnes are produced. It is used but often it is not recycled - it is discarded.  It litters the land, rivers and oceans.  It is now almost impossible to walk in the countryside or on a beach without encountering plastic in one form or another.  Discarded plastic can kill or injure.  Mammals, reptiles, birds can be harmed through eating plastic or becoming entangled in it. Plastics are made up of repeating units (monomers) that join together to form long chains (polymers). There are six major polymer types, PET, HDPE, PVC, LDPE, PP and PS. Many are derived from petrochemicals.  Additives are incorporated into plastics and these can gradually leach back out either during normal use, or when in landfills, or following improper disposal in the environment.  Whilst plastics serve many different functions, their makeup means that they do not easily break down, they persist.  Consequently, a lot of plastic goes to landfill or it may be burnt (to generate energy) - which in turn can release greenhouse gases and pollutants.  Ideally plastics would be reused, like glass bottles were recycled in the dairy industry for over a century. Polyethylene is used widely for plastic bottles and food packaging, PVC is used to make pipes (for water / sewage), coating for electrical cables, uPVC windows and fascia boards. Recycled PVC can be used to make certain types of tree guards, for example :Spiral guards.  Such guards offer protection to young trees and hedgerow so that they can establish themselves, avoiding being chomped by rabbits, deer or sheep.  The guards also offer a micro-climate that helps growth. UV stabilised polyethylene is used to make netting / mesh to protect young trees. [caption id="attachment_34477" align="alignright" width="300"] Tree guards, to protect young trees on moorland[/caption] Tree failure can be an expensive process, so it is important to give young trees a ‘good start in life. A ‘weed’ free area around the planted tree reduces competition for water, light etc. In theory, it should be possible to reuse plastic guards, but they are often damaged, degraded or have to be cut to remove them from the young tree.  As they are not biodegradable, it is important that they are collected and removed. Ideally this material should be recycled.  If many trees are being planted, it may be simpler / more cost effective to fence off the planted area to protect young trees from browsing activity. Because of the problems associated with plastic tree guards, there are now a number of alternatives available.  For example, wool-based tree guards / shelters (eg. Next Gen) are fully biodegradable being made from wool A biodegradable polyol made from ethically sourced cashew nutshell liquid and castor oil A polymer that breaks down over time Other biodegradable forms of tree protection make use of a polymer made from sugar cane (eg. HyTex products).  Such guards decompose slowly through the action of microbes (bacteria and fungi), temperature and humidity, gradually forming a  compost - so their removal is not needed.  

In 2022,  we made a decision to buy Coed Bwlch Coch from woodlands.co.uk,  just over four beautiful acres of woodland near our home in mid Wales. Although we knew nothing about woodland management or forestry my partner and I love the outdoors. Just how important this is became apparent when I had breast cancer some years ago - I even camped out near the hospital during my treatment regime. It took less than six weeks to gain ownership. Woodlands.co.uk had two superb representatives on the ground, Ash and Helen. They opened our eyes to the possibilities this gorgeous strip of woods held. They answered all of our novice questions and guided us with ease through the buying process. We have been so impressed with the sensitivity and care taken by woodlands.co.uk to prepare the whole forest for sale. We’ve only owned the woods for a few months but we have already enjoyed dozens of visits. Our first task to cut back loads of brambles in one area where a bit of old stonework was peeking out has revealed a treasure: the ruin of a stone longhouse that pre exists the 1840 Welsh Tithe Maps on land once owned by the Earl of Powis. We are taking baby steps to learn- we’ve invested in some training courses, some decent outdoor clothing, some second-hand tents and handbooks. This year we’ll do some coppicing, harvest firewood for home, build a store, make some charcoal, camp, bring all our friends and family ... but mostly we will feed our souls.